Plugged into the cigarette lighter, a dash cam switches off with the engine. So it never films what happens to the parked car: the mirror torn off overnight, the door opened too hard in the car park, the scratch down the whole side. Yet that is where most damage happens.<\/p>\n
The kit connects to two fuses \u2014 one permanent, one switched \u2014 plus the earth. The unit compares the two and so knows whether the engine is running. With the ignition off, it keeps powering the camera in surveillance mode, and cuts out as soon as the battery voltage drops below the set threshold.<\/p>\n
That is the unit's main function, and the reason not to settle for a wire on the permanent live. The cut-off threshold is adjustable, usually around 11.6 V: below that, the supply is cut to keep enough charge to start. On a tired battery, set it higher.<\/p>\n
Look at your camera's connector before ordering: USB-C<\/strong> for recent models, micro-USB<\/strong> for most models of the past few years, mini-USB<\/strong> for older ones. The price is the same in all three cases.<\/p>\n The cable that turns a dash cam into a surveillance camera: it powers it from the fuse box instead of the cigarette lighter, and cuts off automatically if the battery weakens. Three and a half metres of cable, plug to be chosen to suit your device.<\/p>","protected":false},"featured_media":2028,"template":"","meta":[],"product_brand":[],"product_cat":[140,134],"product_tag":[],"class_list":["post-1064","product","type-product","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","product_cat-cameras-embarquees-dashcam","product_cat-securite-et-surveillance","first","instock","shipping-taxable","purchasable","product-type-variable"],"yoast_head":"\nWorth knowing<\/h3>\n
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